之前在很多網站上面討論「火星塞」號數問題，除了材質有銅、銀、白金、銥合金等，最重要的大概就是火星塞的熱值，也就是大家說的號數。
這邊有相關文章參考：
http://www.autoth.com/forums/showthread.php?p=371680#post371680
一般網路上的文章得到的結果，多半是最好使用「合適的」熱值！！這也是從NGK網站上也可以輕易得知的訊息。最准的其實就是拆下來檢查一下火星塞的燃燒狀況，就可以知曉。但，自己可是親身試過多種號數火星塞，今天就在這邊寫下一點記錄、心得。
我從一些知名的渦輪車俱樂部裡頭看到，一般改裝車頂多裝上的大概都在8號～9號之間的熱值，這也是今天想要討論的主題。很多網友都說，在換更冷的號數一定會不好開、耗油等等之類的話語。
來吧，先看看我的HKS 11號火星塞的燃燒狀況跟NGK 7號燃燒狀況：
的確，7號火星塞比較燃燒完全！目前車上的火星塞號數是八號，之前也拆下來過，但可惜沒給他拍張照片！但，看看11號的火星塞，其實之前這樣的燃燒狀況也算還好，
中間陶瓷部分、電極部分均呈現褐色，而且11號火星塞算是在一般狀況下使用後拆下來的結果，之前跑高速、高增壓時，算式有點類似8號火星塞的褐色偏白，所以幾乎
也算燃燒完全！！
那...大家說的冷熱值理論到底....
在談一件事，就是這幾次密集換上換下不同火星塞，發現：
1.熱值高的7跟8兩者，在未增壓前的確反應比11號火星塞好一些，但並沒有說好的差一截！！
2.冷值超高的11號火星塞，除了未增壓前的反應沒有7跟8好，但增壓後的反應、拉轉的順暢度、還有「引擎聲」、震動度竟然都比7跟8優...
3.耗油哩？呵呵～好玩的是混合使用的行車方式，竟然得到的結果是差不多...
所以，太冷會不好開嗎？....在我自己試驗的結果，說真的差不了多少，但卻可以得到以上所述的優點....
反省思考：
火星塞只有點火的功能，並沒有可以提前、退後點火的功能，要調整點火時間必須得從ECU等下手，當然NGK技術報告反而提過，『過熱的火星塞』會造成
「提前點火的現象，也就是預燃」，容易產生爆震。既然點火時間不會因為火星塞的冷熱值而改變！！
那重點來了，如果換冷一點的火星塞，在高轉速、高壓下，因為帶走的熱能快（冷一號約可以多帶走70-100度的熱能，這是NGK網站上寫的）！是否就更不容易
發生高轉MISS FIRE或火花過小的現象？反而更能「正常」點火？
當然，這只是我一廂情願的測試結果，不算是很客觀、專業的測試報告，就把他當作是自己的紀錄、心得～
^_^原本在Yahoo拍上PO要賣11號這顆，打算還是留下來等打1.8時來玩玩吧～^_^"
最新照片：再來一彈....兩個月之前，打0.7Kg/cm2之前爆震下的火星塞---Denso IK24號，...好像有點起水泡...不知道這樣還能不能用...目前還掛在車上啦！^_^
底下是文章參考：
5. Heat Range Selection
Let's make this really simple: when you need your engine to run a little cooler, run a colder plug. When you need your engine to run a little hotter, run a hotter spark plug. However, NGK strongly cautions people that going
to a hotter spark plug can sometimes mask a serious symptom of another problem that can lead to engine damage. Be very careful with heat ranges. Seek professional guidance if you are unsure.
With modified engines (those engines that have increased their compression) more heat is a by-product of the added power that normally comes with increased compression. In short, select one heat range colder for every 75-100 hp you add, or when you significantly raise compression. Also remember to retard the timing a little and to increase fuel enrichment and octane. These tips are critical when adding forced induction (turbos, superchargers or nitrous kits), and failure to address ALL of these areas
will virtually guarantee engine damage.
An engine that has poor oil control can sometimes mask the symptom temporarily by running a slightly hotter spark plug. While this is a "Band-Aid" approach, it is one of the only examples of when and why one would select
a hotter spark plug.
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6. Using "Racing" Spark Plugs
Be cautious! In reality, most "racing" spark plugs are just colder heat ranges of the street versions of the spark plug. They don't provide any more voltage to the spark plug tip! Their internal construction is no different (in NGK's case, as all of our spark plugs must conform to the same level of quality controls) than most standard spark plugs.
There are some exceptions, though. Extremely high compression cars or those running exotic fuels will have different spark plug requirements and hence NGK makes spark plugs that are well-suited for these requirements. They are classified as "specialized spark plugs for racing applications". Some are built with precious metal alloy tips for greater durability and the ability to fire in denser or leaner air/fuel mixtures. However, installing the same spark plugs Kenny Bernstein uses in his 300+ mph Top Fuel car (running Nitromethane at a 2:1 air/fuel ratio and over 20:1 dynamic compression) in your basically stock Honda Civic (running 15:1 a/f ratios with roughly 9.5:1 compression) will do nothing for you! In fact, since
Kenny's plugs are fully 4 heat ranges colder, they'd foul out in your Honda
in just a few minutes.
NGK as a company tries to stay clear of saying that a racing spark plug (or ANY spark plug) will give you large gains in horsepower. While certain
spark plugs are better suited to certain applications (and we're happy to counsel you in the right direction) we try to tell people that are looking to "screw in" some cheap horsepower that, in most cases, spark plugs are
not the answer.
To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air/fuel mixture, to survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine's spark plugs,
and to achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance.
Some of these "specialized racing plugs" are made with precious metal alloy center/ground electrodes or fine wire tips or retracted-nose insulators. Again, these features do not necessarily mean that the spark plug will allow the engine to make more power, but these features are what allow the spark plug to survive in these tortuous conditions. Most racers know screwing in a new set of spark plugs will not magically "unlock" hidden horsepower.
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7. Using High Power Ignition Systems
Many of the more popular aftermarket ignition systems are of the capacitive discharge type. They store voltage, or accumulate it, until a point at which a trigger signal allows release of this more powerful spark. Companies like Mallory, MSD, Crane and Accel, to name a few, offer such systems.
They affect spark plugs in that they allow the gaps to be opened up to take advantage of the increased capacity. The theory is that the larger and the more intense the spark you are able to present to the air/fuel mixture, the more likely you will be to burn more fuel, and hence the more power you will make.
We encourage the use of such systems, but only on modified or older non-computer controlled vehicles.
In reality, computer controlled vehicles do such a good job of lighting off the air/fuel mixture (as evidenced by the ultra-low emissions), added ignition capacity would do little to burn more fuel since the stock configuration is doing such a good job. Older non-computer controlled vehicles or those
that have been modified with higher compression or boosted (nitrous, turbo, supercharged) engines can certainly take advantage of a more powerful ignition system.
來源：
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/installation/index.asp?mode=nml#installing
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